Spring in Toktogul with the Chaar

Ever since I was a little girl, I’ve loved horses. Unfortunately, my parents were not interested in owning any (Every time I asked, they reminded me that I required frequent nudging to feed our dog, so a horse was simply out of the question). So, I contented myself with taking riding lessons and admiring these beautiful creatures from more of a distance. Even then, I loved the spotted horses, the Appaloosas, the most. There’s something so striking, elegant, and unique about them.

Fast forward about two decades, and I find myself serving as an ecotourism marketing specialist with the Peace Corps Response for one year in Kyrgyzstan. The Peace Corps is an independent agency of the US government that trains and deploys volunteers to provide international development assistance as well as promote cross cultural friendship and understanding. The goal of my specific program is to improve the socioeconomic status of community members through developing an ecotourism model in the country. I am living in Karakol and partnered with a local DMO, Destination Karakol, though I have had flexibility in deciding which projects I’d like to work on.

time to gain the weight, after cold and long winter

Kyrgyzstan, a place most of my friends and family had to Google search when I told them I was moving here, is a country that should be on the travel bucket list of anyone who appreciates beautiful nature, interesting culture, and grand adventure. This stunning mountainous country is the land of nomads; horses are a part of daily life in Kyrgyzstan, and many children learn to ride at the same time they’re learning to walk. I was excited to spend a year here for many reasons, but the chance to be close to horses was certainly one of them.

About 3 months into my service, I came across a documentary called “True Appaloosa” – the film uncovered the fact that the Appaloosa, bred by the Nez Perce Native Americans in the Pacific Northwest, is actually native to Central Asia, not Spain, as the equestrian world has always believed. This breed’s ancestors likely travelled to the Americas via the Bering Strait many years ago. In the Kyrgyz language, they are called Chaar, which means “spotted”. The Chaar face many issues like crossbreeding, and habitat loss – they are at risk and need to be protected. It was crazy to realize I’d come full circle – from loving the breed as a child, to learning that the Appaloosa is native to the country I call home this year.

As it turned out, one of my Peace Corps Response colleagues Adam, based in the small city of Toktogul, in the Jalal-Abad region, had actually met Munarbek, a local of the area who was featured in and helped produce “True Appaloosa” and runs the International Chaar Appaloosa Association. This non-profit aims to safeguard, enhance and promote the Chaar horse of Central Asia and the nomadic culture that accompanies it. The breed is under danger of extinction, but Munarbek is determined to change that. Through an accelerated breeding program and a winter food security project to support his 3 herds of approximately 60 horses in the cold winter months, he is slowly but surely working to protect and promote the Chaar – both in Kyrgyzstan and abroad.

I was excited to hear about Munarbek’s project and learn more about his work in Toktogul. As my objective in Kyrgyzstan this year is to develop ecotourism in the country, I wondered if there was a way to add a tourism component to the International Chaar Appaloosa Association – a way to introduce more visitors to Kyrgyzstan to the Chaar, and through doing so, find a sustainable source of funding for the Association to supplement the charitable donations that currently keep the project afloat. Adam connected me to Munarbek and I reached out to him with my idea, and was pleased to receive a response the same day. In true Kyrgyz hospitality, he invited me to travel to Toktogul so we could meet, visit his farm and the horses, and discuss our ideas for collaboration. The next week, I found myself traveling the ~12 hours from where I live in Karakol, through Bishkek, and on to Toktogul.

I arrived in Toktogul late in the evening; Adam and I had planned to camp at the farm where the Association’s horses spend the winter safely tucked away from wolves, but as it was dark and raining, Munarbek kindly invited me to stay at his mother’s guesthouse. After sharing shorpo, a Kyrgyz soup, with his family, I went to bed, eagerly anticipating the events of the coming days. The next morning as the weather cleared, we headed to the farm. Adam and I were excited for the chance to tent camp and were not disappointed by the beautiful landscape and peaceful vibe that greeted us. Just outside Toktogul, the farm feels like a world away from the hustle and bustle. The next day, we agreed that Adam and I, guided by Talant (Munarbek’s farm manager), would head out into the mountains for a full day of riding, to find and photograph the Association’s ~60 horses and the new foals arriving this spring. In Kyrgyzstan, horses spend the warm months of the year in the jailoo, the summer mountain pastures, grazing and roaming free.

Munarbek, Axel and Adam having a coffee at chaar ranch

In the time since arriving in Kyrgyzstan I’ve made so many incredible memories, but our time spent riding in the mountains, discovering the Chaar and getting the chance to be close to them in wild nature, was my favorite day by a landslide. Observing these beautiful animals in their natural habitat, under a bright blue sky with the Toktogul Reservoir in the background, actually brought tears to my eyes. Looking around me, I felt so blessed to be having this experience. As we returned to the farm, I couldn’t help but feel inspired – by the horses, the nature, and the passion of Munarbek and Talant for this project.

In the western culture I come from, we live in a busy world. Constantly bombarded by the pressures of society, of social media, of our office jobs, it can be difficult to find peace. Stepping into the beauty of the mountains, surrounded only by the sounds of the outdoors, witnessing the horses who care only for this present moment, is a chance to step away from all of that – and perhaps through doing so, we find a chance to connect with what really matters in life. I walked away from that day certain of something - protecting the Chaar, here in the stunning nature of Kyrgyzstan, is important work.

My visit to Toktogul was a beautiful experience that I will cherish forever – friendships formed and connections made, active adventures in the mountains, camping and communing with nature, and of course, the rare chance to see the Chaar in the wild. Munarbek, Adam, and I are exploring ways to collaborate this year, aiming to integrate ecotourism concepts with the Association’s initiatives to generate sustainable funding for their projects. We are currently brainstorming several ideas, including:
- Educating both locals and tourists about this Central Asian breed and the importance of protecting it

- Conducting trainings for locals who are interested in working in equine ecotourism
- Developing infrastructure in the Toktogul and Suusamyr communities to increase eco-tourism offerings
- Increasing collaboration among local guides, breeders, shepherds, and tour operators.

We are excited about these new ideas and increased collaboration and are eager to have your support. More to come; stay tuned for updates on our progress and how you can be a part of this meaningful journey.

Adam made a video of our day in the mountains – check it out here:

Sarah Gottshall: My spring in Toktogul with the CHAAR horses

Unmissable: Our Chaar Horse Revival Project Captivates Global Media!

Munarbek Kuldanbai: The foaling season is in full swing, It's a magical moment that's challenging to convey in words.

Chaar Appaloosa Association